Summiteers ▎ Burmese Tibetans (I)

1 februarie 2026

"Takazu Oizaki and Nima Gyentsen"
*The two successfully summited Khang Karpo Peak
(R) Takazu Oizaki, (L) Nima Gyentsen
From the Takazu Oizaki family collection

Dahangdang Village is surrounded by mountains
The Adonglang River flows through the valley
(...)
Around the Burmese pagoda flutter Tibetan prayer flags
(...)
The local language is still Tibetan
Some speak Burmese, Kachin, or Zaiwa
to communicate with other villages
And their friendly nature helps them integrate into this ancestral land

— Excerpt from "Khang Karpo Peak" by F. Gely-Ozaki
1996, published in The Himalayan Journal

"Nima Gyentsen Crossing a Crevasse"
1996, from the collection of the Myanmar Himalaya Mountaineering Federation (MHMU)

I first learned about Burmese Tibetans through a friend of my father, who made a living trading medicinal herbs and jewelry. In his description, during the months of May and June in Zayü County (now accessible via the Jitai trading point), one could see those Burmese Tibetans who had traveled long distances to conduct business. The medicinal herbs they brought were of good quality and priced significantly lower. Naturally, I was curious, but at the time, I could only rely on scattered records to understand this community living in a remote and secluded area. As academia has increasingly focused on Burmese Tibetans, with foreign scholars like P.C. Klieger and domestic researchers such as Yang Meng conducting ongoing studies, we have been able to gain further insight into the history and current situation of Burmese Tibetans.

"Takazu Oizaki and Nima Gyentsen Returning to Camp"
1996, from the collection of the Myanmar Himalaya Mountaineering Federation (MHMU)

Mountaineering has drawn people’s attention to the Sherpas. For Nima Gyentsen, living in northern Myanmar, climbing was something completely familiar. Little did anyone know that this "agile, goat-like" young man would soon leave a remarkable mark in mountaineering history, and the Burmese Tibetans he represented would once again arouse the world’s curiosity. In July 1995, the ten-member "Oizaki Family" expedition became the first team to enter Khang Karpo Peak National Park after a gap of fifty-eight years. Watching the foreigners brought by his elder brothers, Nima Gyentsen was filled with curiosity. Before long, when he learned they intended to climb Khang Karpo Peak, the young man was eager to join—and Takazu Oizaki (1952–2011), the leader of the team, chose him as well.

"Diagram of Khang Karpo Peak"
From F. Gely-Ozaki's "Khang Karpo Peak"
1996, *The Himalayan Journal*
*Red line indicates Khang Karpo Peak, blue line indicates Dahangdang Village

"Scenery of Khang Karpo Peak"
1996, photographed by Ko Thet Tun

Nima Gyentsen had no professional mountaineering experience, but he learned quickly; "gifted, he soon mastered various techniques." After considering all factors, Takazu Oizaki chose Nima Gyentsen as his primary climbing partner for this expedition. Clearly, this was an extremely perilous endeavor. In local folklore, Khang Karpo Peak is a deity that protects the world. Although its temperament is not fierce, people's reverence for it remains undiminished. Additionally, from the founding of Myanmar until 1993, apart from official survey teams, the government strictly prohibited foreigners from entering the area. The pressure on Nima Gyentsen, the various concerns of Oizaki's team, the harsh weather, and the unknown route all foreshadowed the outcome of this climbing attempt.

"The Mysterious Khang Karpo Peak"
Photographed in September 1996
Collection of the Myanmar Himalaya Mountaineering Federation (MHMU)

"The Two Daughters of Takazu Oizaki"
1995, from the Takazu Oizaki family collection

In the mountaineering report written by F. Gely-Ozaki, the wife of Takazu Oizaki, it seems that this sacred peak, which had never been climbed by humans, both hindered and protected the team. In the end, they did not achieve their goal, but fortunately, everyone returned safely. Back in Dahangdang Village (ဒဟွန်းဒမ်း), the team expressed gratitude to the sacred mountain and shared their thrilling moments with the villagers. On the final night, a bonfire was lit. In addition to the Tibetans from Dahangdang Village, residents of other ethnicities from neighboring villages also joined in the celebration. Women in traditional attire sang and danced, children played together, including the two daughters of Takazu Oizaki and his wife. We, of course, know what followed—Takazu Oizaki and Nima Gyentsen did not give up. A year later, they would make history.

"Tibetan Women on Their Way to the Monastery"
From A. Rabinowitz's *Walking the Last Village: A Journey of Discovery in Asia's Hidden Lands*, 2001

"Tibetan Hunter and Hunting Dog"
From A. Rabinowitz's *Walking the Last Village: A Journey of Discovery in Asia's Hidden Lands*, 2001

In September 1996, at the foot of Khang Karpo Peak, people were discussing their strategy. This climbing expedition was jointly organized by France, Japan, and Myanmar. Among them, the Myanmar Himalaya Mountaineering Federation provided significant assistance, hoping to enhance the association's international reputation through this event. Unlike the previous year, Nima Gyentsen and Takazu Oizaki were now the pillars of the entire team, and the summit would be achieved by them. As if acknowledging human determination, the sacred mountain chose to "turn a blind eye." At 3:12 PM on September 15, 1996, Japanese climber Takazu Oizaki and Burmese Tibetan Nima Gyentsen successfully reached the summit. Standing at an elevation of 5,881 meters, the two raised the flags of the three countries, their faces filled with smiles. In media reports and discussions within the international mountaineering community, Nima Gyentsen and the Burmese Tibetans became hot topics. After their achievement, scholars and writers flocked to catch a glimpse of these people from the hidden lands.