Medicine King Mountain (Part II): The Secret of the Architectural Complex

Medicine King Mountain (Part II): The Secret of the Architectural Complex

Panoramic view of Lhasa: Gesang Jiacuo Returns to Lhasa
Mid-19th century, Royal Ontario Museum Collection
Detail: Potala Palace complex
Note: Clearly visible cylindrical red wall towers
"Panoramic view of Medicine King Mountain taken from the Potala Palace"
1937, held by the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford
Taken by the team of Li Jisheng (1905-2000)
"Lhasa Medicine Mountain: Tibetan Medical Schools and Monasteries" (2005)
Co-authored by Robert Gerl and Jürgen C. Aschoff
This book is a masterpiece on the social and individual history of Tibetan medicine.

Preface

In the previous article, scholar Knud Larsen revealed the importance and multiple layers of meaning of the Medical King Hill architectural complex in the landscape of Lhasa City. By comparing imagery data from the last century and utilizing his years of research on Tibetan architecture, Knud Larsen attempted to reconstruct the specific layout and core concepts of the Medical King Hill architectural complex. Among the various studies on Tibetan architecture, the Medical King Hill architectural complex has always been a challenging subject for academia. The ruined architectural relics, incomplete landscape records, and complex historical factors have led us to accept the fact that "research will always leave regrets." According to the traditional architectural history of Tibet, while we may easily know the basic information of the main deity and architectural layout of buildings from different periods, when it comes to actual design, this data falls short of the requirements for reconstruction.

 

"The main statue in the Chalalup Temple on Medicine King Mountain"
Around 1921, in the collection of the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford
Photographed by the team of Charles Bell (1870-1945)

Furthermore, even if we are aware of basic information about the interior of the architectural complex, such as the Coral Decorated Infinite Life Buddha statue in the Temple of Early Achievements (*གྲུབ་ཐོབ་ལྷ་ཁང་*), the new construction of the main hall by Regent Sanggye Gyatso using twenty pillars, or the altar dedicated to the renowned Tibetan, Mongolian, and Han doctors; such historical records cannot help us understand the basic layout of the mountain roads on Medicine King Mountain, the actual layout of different functional buildings, and how people study and live in the buildings. Therefore, visual and oral historical materials are key resources for researching the architectural complex of Medicine King Mountain. In this translated text, Knud Larsen will use oral history and visual materials to try to materialize speculations and provide suggestions for "rebuilding the architectural complex of Medicine King Mountain". As in the previous article, symbols denoting images used in the original English text will be marked with an asterisk (*), and the translator will provide explanatory notes for some content.

 

"A muleteer waiting to obtain the holy spring water at Yaowang Mountain"
Around 1921, Oxford Pitt Rivers Museum collection
Photographed by Charles Bell (1870-1945) team

 

Text

After completing the set of architectural drawings of the Medicine King Mountain in 2009, there was no progress in this research until 2012. In the summer of 2012, I happened to meet Theresia Hofer in Oslo. She was a postdoctoral researcher at the University of Oslo and had written papers on Tibetan medicine. The Rubin Museum was planning an exhibition called "Balancing the Body: The Art of Tibetan Medicine," which Theresia was working on. I told her about the idea of reconstructing the Medicine King Mountain Medical College, and she invited me to participate in the exhibition at the Rubin Museum. I contributed my drawings to the exhibition and became the author of a chapter in the exhibition publication. I titled the chapter "Pillars of Tibetan Medicine: The Medicine King Mountain and Men-Tsee-Khang Medical College in Lhasa."

"The Balance of the Body: The Art of Tibetan Medicine" edited by Tracy Hoover, 2014
Through her, I learned that in a book published in Germany in 2005, titled "Medicine Mountain of Lhasa: Medical Schools and Monasteries of Tibetan Medicine," three doctors who had worked at the Medical College of Medicine Mountain were interviewed in oral history. This information played a key role in my reexamination of the architectural design of Medicine Mountain. Furthermore, Hofer showed me photos taken by Heinrich Harrer in the summer of 1982, where the remnants of the architectural complex were still visible and the television signal tower had not yet been erected, helping us to resolve some issues regarding the interior structure of the buildings. Finally, while searching for photos at the German Federal Archives, I stumbled upon photos taken by Ernst Schäfer between 1938 and 1939, which will help us understand the upper structure of the medical school.

"Mo Ya Shi Ke on the south side of Lhasa Medicine King Mountain: White Tara"
From "Mo Ya Shi Ke on Medicine King Mountain" (1996)

 

The German publication mentions the twenty pillars in the central hall. For those familiar with Tibetan architecture, "twenty pillars" means that the pillars in the hall are arranged in a four by five layout, with spaces between the pillars measuring five by six (approximately 2.4 meters each). This space, approximately twelve by fourteen point four meters in size, is ideal for the central hall. Another important piece of information in the book is a sketch of the main building layout (Figure One). In 1997, after interviewing Dr. Danzeng Baijue, scholars created the sketch. The sketch depicts a main hall with rooms on both sides, connected to the original tower. There is a short staircase leading from the main hall to the tower. The tower consists of three levels, and no other staircases are shown in the sketch. Staircases inside the tower would take up too much space. Therefore, people at that time must have entered the tower from the outside (via the mezzanine in the main hall), a common design seen in many temples. Alternatively, they could have entered from the roof, another common design.

 

*Image 1: Sketch drawn after interview
Provided by Danzeng Baijue in 1997
1. Main hall  2. Storage room for Tibetan medical thangkas
3. Storage room for silk decorations   4. Purpose unknown
5. Printing room with side door   6. Main entrance of the main hall

When trying to arrange the rooms within the main hall, I discovered that the main entrance of the hall is not centered on the east facade. By studying the photographs taken by Vanes, it was found that the main door is offset from the center by about 1.5 meters, indicating that it was built later than the hall itself. It is likely that during the initial construction or possibly during the building process, an additional row of columns was added to provide extra space. This additional space formed a room measuring five by five meters. Considering its location along the southern wall, this space makes sense. The first two rooms on the west side are the storage rooms for Tibetan thangkas and silk decorations, but the purpose of the third room is unclear. The sketches do not indicate the size of these three rooms. On the opposite side of the hall is a printing room. This is a long and narrow space, ideal for storing woodblocks and paper. There is a side door that connects the printing room to an external staircase.
"The monks printing 'Ganzhuer' in Zhebang Temple"
Photographed by Schuyler Jones in 1986
Collection of Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford.


The photos taken by Wanis show that in the southeast corner of the hall, there is a smaller space extending to the roof, possibly the location of an internal staircase. This is common in many temples. These stairs lead to a mezzanine, which is a common design feature of the hall. The mezzanine provides lighting for the hall and leads to the first floor of the tower. It is difficult to determine if the main staircase also extends to the top of the mezzanine. If not, there is likely a lightweight staircase placed in the secondary room to access the roof, commonly seen in temple rooftops. The height of each floor of the tower is roughly the same. In any case, there may be another small staircase on the roof to access the second floor of the tower, which is common in Tibetan structures such as the Xialu temple. In the photo, there appears to be a pole in the center of the tower. In my initial design concept, it was indeed used to support the roof of the tower, similar to the wooden core pillars of a stupa, but it may also just be part of the roof. In the final design, I considered the possibility of a central pillar supporting the floors and roof of the tower; therefore, I concluded that there must be an internal core structure in the tower, consisting of four interconnected pillars.

 

*Image 2: "Peter Aufschnaiter at the Summit of Medicine Buddha Mountain"
Photographed in 1948 by Heinrich Harrer
Peter Aufschnaiter (1899-1973), a mountaineer and geographer, is conducting geographical surveying at the summit of Medicine Buddha Mountain.

When I was looking at a photo taken by Hal, I found the answer to this question. In the photo, Peter Ofschnait stood on the roof and looked at the instrument on the tripod (Image 2). The so-called "pole" is actually a copper decoration in the center of the roof. Hal's series of photos taken in Lhasa in 1982 showed the ruins of a building. One was taken from the northeast (Image 3) and the other from the southwest (Image 4). In the former, the slope is easy to identify. The openings on the north facade indicate the positions of former small windows, a door next to the staircase in the middle of the east facade leads to the basement; and the tower window facing the Potala Palace can also be seen. The latter shows the windows on the south facade, as well as the relationship between the tower and the west wall. Upon zooming in on the photo, it can be seen that there is a horizontal gap above the rocks on the west wall. Below this gap, there are traces of contamination on the rocks: flowing out from the gap and running down along the rock wall. Without a doubt, this is a toilet. The building definitely had a toilet, there was a toilet near the main hall printing room, and there was also an outdoor toilet on the roof, separated by a wall between them.

*Image 3: "Ruins of the Medicine King Mountain Architectural Complex"
Photographed by Heinrich Hahler in 1982
Some wall surfaces may date back to the Tang Dynasty period
*Image 4: Ruins of the Medicine King Mountain architectural complex
Photographed in 1982 by Heinrich Haller

The architectural design does not obstruct the view of the mountain structure.
The space beneath the main hall is used for storing medicinal materials. The height of the rocks on the exterior of the building, especially on the western facade, indicates that the pagoda was built level with the mountain, meaning the basement was constructed around the mountain peak. This storage space has two entrances or can be accessed through the main staircase at the southeast corner of the central hall. In a photo taken by Spencer Chapman in 1937, two monks are seen playing musical instruments on the roof of the Medical Academy of Medicine on Mount Medicine (Figure 5). The following year, Ernst Schäfer took almost identical photos. However, in Schäfer's other photos, the monks are standing at a higher point than the roof of the main hall (Figures 6 and 7). This position must be the roof above the mezzanine of the main hall, and Chapman must have stood on this roof to take the photo. This design reveals the source of lighting for the main hall and how people access the top two floors of the tower. Chapman must have had a large window under his feet, through which sunlight enters the central hall. This common design can be seen in any Tibetan temple.
*Image 5: "View of the Potala Palace from Medicine King Mountain"
Taken by Spencer Chapman in 1937.
*Image 6: "View of the Potala Palace from Medicine King Hill"
Filmed by Ernst Schäfer in 1939
One of the most important visual materials for the reconstruction plan.
*Image 7: "Monk Playing on the Roof of the Medical College"
Taken by Ernst Schäfer in 1939
In the distance, the dormitories of the college and a pathway leading down the mountain are visible.
In "Medicine King Mountain in Lhasa: Tibetan Medical College and Monastery", the oral narrator mentions that the kitchen of the medical college is located in a small building at the entrance. Considering the daily delivery of food, the location of the kitchen is extremely reasonable. There is a food storage room next to the stairs in the basement of the gatehouse, and the kitchen is located above. At this point, the basic structure of the complex is revealed. Drawings eight through eleven that I have completed present the square facades of the complex, while drawings twelve and thirteen show the core architectural structure and floor relationships as sectional drawings. Finally, drawings fourteen through eighteen illustrate the functionality and size of the interior spaces within the complex. I hope that these sketches can help us further understand the college and reconstruct it.
*Image 8: "Plan for the Reconstruction of the Medicine Academy on Medicine King Mountain: North Facade"
Drawn by Knud Larsen in 2015.
*Image 9: "Medicine King Mountain Medical College Reconstruction Plan: East Elevation"
Drawn by Knud Larson in 2015
*Image 10: "Mount Medicine King Medical College Reconstruction Plan: South Elevation"
2015, illustrated by Knud Larsen
*Image 11: "Plan for the reconstruction of Medical College on Medicine King Mountain: Western Facade"
Drawn by Knud Larsen in 2015
In the autumn of 2015, when I visited Lhasa, there were rumors that the television signal tower would be relocated to another location. It was suggested that we could rebuild at the original site of the Yiwangshan Medical College, using it as a Tibetan Medicine Museum to showcase timeless masterpieces such as Tibetan medicine thangkas. Perhaps a Tibetan medicine research center could also be established. The entire reconstruction work should use classical building methods, utilizing traditional materials and tools while prohibiting the use of concrete and modern materials (as seen in the negative example of the Zongpu in Shigatse). Reconstructing the Yiwangshan architectural complex will inspire the people of Tibet to the maximum extent and earn international acclaim. I believe that the rebuilt buildings will attract a large number of tourists. The Medicine King Mountain architectural complex could become the best alternative to the fragile Hongshan architectural complex today, allowing visitors to experience a landscape similar to that of the Hongshan architectural complex.
*Image 12: "Reconstruction Plan of Medicine College on Yaowang Mountain: South and North Facade"
Drawn by Knud Larsen in 2015

Image 13: "Medical College Reconstruction Plan of Yaowang Mountain: East and West Facades"
Drawn by Knud Knudsen in 2015

At the end of the article, I want to tell you about a wonderful coincidence. In September 2015, I spent a few days in Chengdu. During that time, a friend invited me to have dinner with some of her friends. One of them was a former soldier who had been stationed in Tibet. He quietly told me that he might be more familiar with the building than many others. When he first entered Tibet, he was only seventeen years old. Later, he became a doctor in the Shigatse area. It is worth mentioning that he had once been the personal physician of the Panchen Lama. He wished me luck in my "reconstruction plan," and I felt that this was a good omen: the cycle of destruction and reconstruction was about to come to a close.

*Image 14: "Medicine King Mountain Medical School Reconstruction Plan: Gatehouse"
Drawn by Knud Larsen in 2015
*Image 15: "Medical College of Yao Wang Mountain Reconstruction Plan: Basement"
2015, illustrated by Knud Larsen
*Image 16: "Medicine King Mountain Medical College Reconstruction Plan: Main Hall"
Drawn by Knud Larsen in 2015
*Image 17: "Medicine King Mountain Medical College Reconstruction Plan: Main Hall Mezzanine"
Drawn by Knud Larsen in 2015
*Image 18: "Medicine King Mountain Medical College Reconstruction Plan: Roof"
Drawn by Knud Larsen in 2015.
*Original text by Mr. Knud Larsen
Illustrated by the artist Tsering Tashi




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